Full Moon Lantern Festival in Hoi An, Vietnam

The Full Moon Lantern Festival in Hoi An, Vietnam happens every month, not like other parts of Asia which only celebrates with a full moon lantern festival about once every 15 months. The traditional festival is tied in with Chinese New Year.  We were lucky enough to be there to see it on our first visit to Vietnam.  In fact, one of my travel companions, Jon, celebrated his birthday in the beautiful soft glow of the candlelit lanterns.  

To experience the Full Moon Lantern Festival in Hoi An, Vietnam, is to understand a simple, joyful, peaceful way of life that isn't always evident in the bustling village.  Many buildings in the central old town have existed for centuries, managing to stand strong through times of floods, famine, and war.  Modern technology quickly weaves its way through the narrow streets, honking to be allowed past.

The approaching evening festival quiets the chaos of the day and introduces the tranquility of the night.  No traffic is allowed on streets near the river.  Darkness descends and suddenly the area is alight with colourful lanterns of all sizes.  The shops and eateries along the river’s edge gradually take on a soft, pleasant ambiance, very different from their daytime realities.

We decided to begin the evening by going to a local dining establishment overlooking the river.  We went early enough that we got a table by the open window.  As it got darker, buildings across the river began turning off their electricity and lighting up their colourful lanterns.  The restaurant we were in had candles placed strategically throughout the establishment.  A trip downstairs to the washroom was quite an adventure!  The only spot in town which continued to be lit by electricity was the ancient Japanese foot bridge crossing the river.  Hundreds of lanterns of all shapes and colours lit the pathway across the inky waters.

After our meal was finished and the low-priced bill was paid, we joined others on the street to enjoy the spectacle.

Local children had spent days making colourful floating paper lanterns to prepare for the celebration.  During the Full Moon Lantern Festival, the paper lanterns are sold for $1 each to the tourists to float down the river.  All the money realized from the sale goes to the poor who live in the city and surrounding countryside. 

A wizened old lady, barely taller than the children selling the lanterns, tries to convince us that we must take a journey on a river in her dugout canoe.  We have been watching the canoes pass by, only powered by the strength of the person at the end of a long pole.  Can this tiny woman possibly take on the river current and win? 

“Only $20 US dollars,” she cackles in broken English.  She lights up a pungent cigar while waiting for us to decide. There are seven of us; five adults and two children.  We finally accept her challenge and are somewhat relieved when she insists that we must wear the life jackets tucked away under our seats!

A few moments later we silently slip through the water, surrounded by the floating lanterns.  The only sound is muted drumbeats, heralding from the distant shore.  People stand quietly watching our journey from the arched walking bridge, connecting the two shores together.  It is the only place the lights are still on, illuminating the ancient Japanese bridge in all it's splendor.  Dozens of paper lanterns soften the glare of electricity.

The full moon slowly makes an appearance over the water to the north of the village.  An hour passes and we eventually arrive back at the spot where we departed.  We leave the boat and each of us gives a slight bow to the tiny, strong woman who has returned us safely.  

It is still a beautiful magical memory, one that I hope to enjoy again one day!