May 17, 2016

A Great Farmer's Market in Tire , Turkey

Tire (pronounced tier ray) is a traditional farming community in Turkey, about a 40 minute drive away from Selcuk.  Young friends of Judy's asked if we would like to accompany them to the market, which is held on Tuesdays and Fridays.  We jumped at the chance to spend Day 2 immersed in the farming community.

The journey out to Tire was through lush, green farmland supporting many of the vegetable and fruit crops I am familiar with at home but also crops like figs and artichokes and pomegranates and olives as well as many nut varieties.
Turkey is considered the breadbasket of European, middle eastern and Asian countries.
The Town itself was a mixture of ancient and modern. The local museum supposedly has articles dating back to the 6th century but visiting the museum wasn't on our list.
I have decided Turkey is one of the tastiest places I have ever visited!  I had no idea the preparation and presentation and sharing was such an important part of the Turkish culture but I think I have already put on 5 lbs. since I began this journey!
The smells of food cooking were present as soon as we entered the marketplace.  Meals aren't rushed though,  especially in the market.  It is a time to visit and and discuss all that is happening around in the farming community without rushing the process.
There was definitely a lack of tourists at the market.  We were dressed
conservatively....tops with sleeves, closed shoes, covered legs, so we blended in.  No one came rushing out trying to compete for our dollars.  Some of men were interested in practicing their English with us but most of the women remained in the background.  Presentation of the fruits and vegetables were also done by the men.
Had we arrived at Tire by 9 am we possibly could have tasted a traditional dish that people come very early and line up for.   The farmer starts preparing the dish in the middle of the night.  It consists of a large round solid homemade cheese which has been filled with lamb meat and local spices.  The dish is wrapped and placed over an open fire and cooked very slowly for about 7 hours.  By early morning the dish is usually sold out.
The walk through the market place consisted of a riot of colours.  I was informed that women from the farming communities, dressed in traditional head scarves, did not want their pictures taken.
 They still believed that having a picture taken would steal their soul so I tried to be careful.  An hour in we took time for chai and baclava, a very sweet, traditional dessert.  It was nice to sit back and watch the action.  Even though Tire market is known for it's fresh fruits and vegetables and cheeses, the market was filled with clothing and housewares as well.
 Definitely a one stop shopping experience.  There was the usual knockoffs as well as every type of jeans imaginable.  I found out the south western part of Turkey is also well known for their jean factories.  We continued for another hour before stopping for lunch consisting of Turkish meatballs and the best yogurt I have ever eaten!
 The meatballs were actually done like kabobs, with the meat being wrapped around the stick and cooked and then served with sweet onions and fresh tomatoes and something like Lima beans but much better tasting.  We chased it all down with Ayran, a salty yogurt drink.
By the time we headed back to Selcuk we were loaded down with figs and honey and yogurt and melon and fresh potted flowers. A lovely experience!


Good Morning, Selchuk Turkey!

The city of Selchuk,Turkey (or should I call it the village) is peaceful, quiet, and beautiful at 6:30 in the morning. The sun just peaked over the ancient fortress walls high on Mount Ayasuluk built in the Byzantine age.
As I look at the scenery in front of me it is difficult to explain the feeling of history surrounding me.
Selcuk (Ayasuluk) Fortress
For those who have been here before there is nothing I can say.  For those who want to experience the beginning of civilization as we know it, come visit.
Last night, Judy Smith, a lifelong traveler explained Selchuk as the only place she has ever visited where one can observe ancient pagan structures, Muslim structures, and early Christian structures all in the same place.
I arrived last night from Istanbul after spending a number of disjointed hours catching up on my sleep following my international journey from Canada.
The shuttle bus was late and my host, Ilker, from the Nazar Hotel www.nazarhotel.com was getting concerned that I was lost.  Not to worry! I showed up on my shuttle.
Life slows down here.  Because it was already 8:30, I dropped my bags and headed out to enjoy my first meal in Selcuk
(pronounced sell chuke).  I mention this only because of the difficulty the shuttle driver had trying to understand where I wished to go!
The entrance to the street where Judy and I would dine was magical.  Trees entwined above the softly lit pathway, creating a natural archway.
We walked down the path, visiting with different shop keepers along the way.  Judy had first started coming to Selchuk the first time over 20 years ago and some of the shopkeepers that we spoke with knew her back then.
A short while later we made it to our dinner destination, the TAT Restaurant tatcaferestaurant@hotmail.com I quickly found out that eating in Turkey was about the experience first and the food second..... although both are important.
 I had no idea what to order so we started off with local beer and I made choices from a window full of food platters.  We ended up with a collection of tapis, which we shared along with a hot steamy hollow loaf similar to naan and then followed it with shish kabob and other grilled meats.
Day 1 ended with a full tummy and excitement for whatever was next on the list!