Showing posts with label Egirdir. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Egirdir. Show all posts

Jun 14, 2016

Three Great Weeks in Turkey June 2016!

Turkey is very much a mix of modern and ancient.  I decided to write about some of the highlights of my trip in May and June, 2016 now that I'm back in Canada.  I stayed in 3 cities while I was in Turkey; Selcuk, Egirdir, and Goreme.  I also did a number of day trips to other areas.

Like many travelers, there were things I was interested in seeing and things that weren't on my list. Some of the "don't miss" highlights I took in were as follows.

Ephesus
Ephesus (Selcuk)
Ephesus is the most complete Greco-Roman classical city on earth and is also a UNESCO Heritage Site.  The Temple of Artemis, located on the site, was one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world.  The closest city, Selcuk, is also home to Isa Bey Mosque and the Basilica of St. John.

I'm not big on museums and ruins but I must say I am glad I went to see Ephesus, although I had to run to stay ahead of the crowds to take pictures!  If you can arrange to see the ruins before or after the cruise ship tours or any other day than on the weekend, it will be worth your while.

It's also a good idea either to take in the museum and video about Ephesus (located in Selcuk) before you go or hire a guide on-site.

There is an amazing amount of history included with the site.

Hamam (Egirdir)
Hamam
The next trip to Turkey will include 2 Hamams, one at the beginning and one at the end!  The Turkish bath is located in many cities but the one I was introduced to was in the town of Egirdir.  It has just been renovated and offers separate days for men and women.  The woman who runs it and does the massage is amazing!

It was probably the best one I could experience in Turkey on my first trip.  Now I have something to compare the others with.

The Hamam is open for women on Thursdays and Fridays.  The local market is on Thursdays, so it is a good day to plan to be there.

The market is also a good place to purchase rose oil products, something the area is known for. Tours can be arranged to go up into the hills and actually see a production sight and purchase real rose oil, which I did.

Cave Church Frescoes
Goreme Open Air Museum (Goreme, Cappadocia)
Cappadocia's Goreme Open Air Museum was created by nature first and then embellished by man through painting wonderful religious frescoes in the natural churches on site. The most untouched artwork is located in the Dark Church. The closest city, Goreme, has many natural sites of it's own, including actual caves and fairy chimneys that a person can stay in while exploring the rest of the area.

The Open Air Museum is definitely a good place to begin your site-seeing in this wonderful fairyland.


Caravanserai
Whirling Dervishes at Caravanserai (Cappadocia)
I wasn't too sure what to expect at the Whirling Dervishes but I was handed a pamphlet as I went in explaining what I would see.  It's a traditional religious ceremony following the teaching of Qua ran in the Muslim culture and it is centuries old.

The setting I saw it in was amazing.  The Caravanserai was a stop on the Silk Road for travelers centuries ago.  Both the travelers and their animals (camels or horses) stayed in the building overnight and had a meal there.

I was allowed to take pictures/ videos toward the end of the ceremony.  The best place to sit is 2 or 3 levels up in the seating area situated behind the alter with red lighting.

I haven't included a video because I think it is something a person has to experience them self.

Turkey Bloomers
Traditional Farm Clothing (Throughout Turkey)
Long full bloomers were the traditional nomadic dress of both men and women before 1900.  It eventually became popular more with the women and are still worn.  The "bloomers" are long garb, fitted at the ankles and with a crotch that is just about as long.

Because they are a very baggy garment they are considered appropriate for an older Muslim woman to look well covered when out in public.  They show absolutely no figure!  They are also great for farming or gardening. Personally I think they are extremely comfortable, like jogging pants, but just to be worn around the house in the north American culture!

The clothing throughout most parts of Turkey is very western although many women wear a scarf when they are out in public, which designates they are Muslim.  The scarves are usually very colourful on the younger women.  And a note.... I saw fewer women wearing burkas in Turkey than I've seen in Canada!

The only time I was expected to wear a scarf was entering a mosque but there was usually a selection available at the door.  I also respected the culture by wearing a top with short sleeves and either capris or a skirt to my knees in the parts of Turkey I visited.  Because it was warm, my flip flops came out,of course!

Underground Rooms
Underground Cities (Cappadocia Area)
A couple of the tours that many people experience while in Cappadocia is a visit to one of the underground cities.  A new one has recently been discovered and may have housed up to 30,000 people at one time.  They hope to have it open for tours in a couple of years.

The one I visited with Turtle Tours was the widest underground city found so far in the region, Kaymakli Underground City.  It goes down 8 levels but currently only 5 levels are open to the public for safety reasons.  You must hire a guide to tour the city and if you tend to be claustrophobic it may not be a good choice.

Archaeologists figured up to 3,500 people lived in the city centuries ago.


The Cat and I Checking Carpets



Turkish Carpets (Throughout Turkey)
No trip to Turkey is complete without taking the time to find out about Turkish carpets.  I still know very little!

Carpets were woven for hundreds of years for practical reasons.  The nomadic travelers used them for sleeping in their tents and also as a ground cover for serving food.  The way they were constructed, the carpets lasted many years.  Each region developed their own patterns and even now a carpet can be identified by its pattern.  A woman would learn to weave carpets to put in her dowry.  She might create her own patterns too so the carpets at times were very artistic. The women would also create their own colours and dye lots from the plants growing in their region.

I spent some time with Ruth at Tribal Carpet Collections finding out a bit more about the various carpets available. There are a number of carpet materials used for weaving with the finest carpets being made out of silk or a combination of fine wool and silk. Many of the later carpets were woven out of a rougher wool.

Carpet prices vary greatly, and sometimes depends on how good a person is at bartering!  It's also necessary to deal with a reputable carpet dealer since there are lots of "fake" Turkish carpets out there. One of the interesting things that is happening now is the used Turkish carpets are often cheaper than the new ones because the people weaving them are finally getting a decent wage (for Turkey, that is!)

If you plan to buy a carpet when in Turkey, try and find someone knowledgeable that can take you to a few carpet stores and can show you what to watch for.  It might cost you a few dollars for the tour but will save you money in the end.

Sackava
Ethnic Food
Isn't it interesting that my blogging keeps bringing me back to food.  It's because the food is sooooo good in Turkey!  I think that's why I felt so healthy while I was there.  Much of the food is grown organically and sold fresh and ripe at the local markets.

When I was in Selcuk I went to the Tire market on Tuesday and the Saturday Selcuk market.  In Egirdir, the market is on Thursday.  The Goreme market is Wednesday and the Avanos market (near Goreme) is Friday. We also went to an indoor one in Nevsehir, which is the site of the new underground city.  The market is open on Saturday and Monday.

There are many dishes I still have to try (watch for my blog on main dishes in Turkey) but I have had the opportunity to sample quite a few while I've been here. Probably the ones I have enjoyed the most are the mezes but I also enjoyed gozleme, manti, borek, every type of sis kebap, sackava, guvec, and of course baklava with chai or ayran or Turkish coffee as a beverage, or the occasional Efes bira.

Now that I've returned home I've decided to continue eating healthy.  I've already changed my diet to a traditional Turkish breakfast!

Kamilkoc Buslines
Getting Around Turkey
It was very easy to get around Turkey.  I flew from Vancouver to Munich on Lufthansa and then into Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  From there I caught a flight to Izmir.  I found out after I could have flown direct to Izmir.

From Izmir airport to Selcuk there are 2 options.  Take the train from the Izmir airport (very cheap especially if you are a senior) or get a local transfer (also very cheap)! From Selcuk to Egidir I took a Kamilkoc Bus, which is very reasonable and comfortable.  They serve drinks and snacks during the trip.  It is about a 6 hour journey to Egidir from Selcuk.

Flying from Izmir to Cappadocia is about an hour and half. There is a great Airport Transfer (Helios Transfer) to Goreme or other locations. They are also available for inbound tours.

For local tours I made my arrangements through the Nazar Hotel in Selcuk, the Choo Choo Pension in Egidir, and the Cave Hotel Saksagan in Cappadocia.

The last way to enjoy Turkey, specifically Cappadocia, is by balloon.  Plan to be in Cappadocia for at least 3 to 4 days because the balloon companies will only fly if the winds are okay.

Make your arrangements through a local reputable tour company because some of the companies don't have a good safety record and experienced pilots.

The tour company I used was Turtle Tours because I found them to be honest and reasonably priced.  Unfortunately I had 2 days of bad weather after I finally made up my mind to go up so missed doing the flight.  Next time!

May 28, 2016

Steps to Having a Hamam (Turkish Bath) in Turkey!

I had my first Hamam (Turkish bath) ever the other day while in Turkey...... good place to start them!  I had no idea what I was in for.  My friend Judy had shared some funny experiences a couple of travel groups had but I really had nothing to compare it to in my own experience!

The Turkish bath, or Haman, as it is called, is part of the lifestyle of the Turkish people and goes back centuries.  Even though there are now mixed Hamams, the traditional bath had separate bath days for men and women and in most cities that is still the case.

I had my first Turkish bath in Egirdir although there is also on in Selcuk I found out for ladies only on Fridays from 9 to 1. Egirdir has 2 days for ladies on Thursday and Friday.

The building is located in the middle of the city hidden away behind the post office.  I entered the building and asked for prices first.  It would cost me 40 lira (equivalent to $20 CDN) for a Turkish bath and soap massage, which was what Judy recommended.

I was escorted into a change room and the gal motioned to me to take everything off except my undies.  She gave me a light weight striped towel to wrap around my body.  With my research after the fact I found out the striped cotton (or sometimes cotton/ silk blend) towel is also part of the traditional bath.

Men are required to wear it in the bath around their waist and were not allowed to be nude at anytime.  Of course nowadays they would just wear a pair of launch!

Women cover their body from armpits to thighs but once they are in the Hamam, they can just leave their panties on.  Traditionally they would go nude and it is probably still acceptable.

The hamam can also be visited for many reasons, again part of Turkish tradition. A bridal party may hold a "cleansing" before the wedding, complete with food and drink and music.... tambourines and singing. Forty days after a baby is born the hamam may be part of the "coming out" party.

For me, I was just pleased to be all by myself in the hamam at first.  I had also been given a pair of non-slip sandals to wear.  I went through the main room, which had a non-operating marble fountain and a couple of long padded benches.  Then the masseuse opened a wooden door and then motioned me immediately through a second one.  Behind door #2 was a hot, steamy beautiful marble room!

It was certainly NOT what I was expecting.  Turkish bath....bathtub....right? Or at least a pool.  In the old days often a pool was part of the process but now it is a combination of heat and steam and water created by actual heating units and modern technology.

In front of me was a thigh high octagonal shaped piece of marble about 7 feet across that the masseuse motioned for me to lie on after motioning for me to take off my towel.  No-one else here? Okay.  As much as I am a child of the sixties there is still a part of the Canadian conservatism in-bred!  I did as I was told and she left.

Oh my!  Wonderful glorious heat coursing through my body from the marble and from the steam in the room.  Marble is one of the hardest surfaces known but it was actually quite comfortable.

I lay on my tummy for awhile and then flipped onto my back.  Above me small skylights set in the domed ceiling let in the daylight.

The door opened and another woman entered.  I smiled and she smiled back.  She then sat down on a  bench on the side of the room next to a marble sink sitting on the bench.  Next, she turned on the water and using a dish provided she began pouring water over herself.  Centuries ago the water dishes were made out of hammered silver or copper but the ones for our use were plastic.

Well, I figured, I may as well give it a try and moved over to the wall, making sure first that I had the bath shoes on.  There was no drain in the sink. The idea was to run water into the sink (both hot and cold available) and then scoop it out to pour it over my body.

After a few minutes I was back on the slab.  I noticed the other woman had a loofa that she was using on her body and I wondered if I should have been given one. A few minutes later I found out I didn't need one.

My masseuse arrived, dressed as  I was...just panties.  She held two loofa mitts.

Using job specific English she asked, "normal or hard?". No soft involved!


"Normal please!" I answered.  She again motioned me to move, this time to a marble slab built into the wall.  I lay down, face up and the massage began!  My whole body was loofa-d and I couldn't believe the dirt that rolled off!  I'd had a shower that morning but obviously it wasn't that great.  Yuuk!

Next came the soap massage.  Somehow the masseuse squeezed and manipulated a bag with a couple of soap bars in it until it was full of frothy foam.  She used it on my body until I was squeaky clean.  I say squeaky because there was definitely no surface oil left on my body to grease anything up!

She quickly rinsed me before starting the final massage.. a medium tissue one as opposed to deep tissue.  I think I would have come straight off the marble slab had it been deep tissue. There were 2 or 3 spots on my body that didn't like the intense pain as it was so I let her know through my yelling.  She was good.  She backed off.... not like my massage experience in China..... but that's another story!

She let my body have a bit of a break for a moment and went to talk with the other woman doing her own loofa-ing.  I had to look over because with the wonderful acoustics in the bath it sounded as though they were singing together.  They were only talking but the echos created a lilting sound.

The final part of the process was the rinse, which you would think would be easy. Not so.  Most of it was but the final position she wanted me to get in was one my body rebelled against.  I may have been good at doing the heel squat as a young person but there was no way this 66 year old body would allow it!

She motioned me to once again lie on the octagonal slab and I happily walked over on my now jelly feeling legs and was enveloped once again into the wonderful heat.  I lay there for maybe another 10 minutes, not rushing to leave. Nor was I rushed.  There was enough room for at least 3 bodies on the slab if I needed to share.

After exiting and getting dressed the last part of the process was receiving some rosewater on my hand.  A young woman with Downs syndrome had the job to do that.  I only mention that because it was nice to see that the Turkish culture embraced people with challenges and employed them.

The whole process took close to 2 hours and many people will stay up to 4 hours from what I understand.  It can be a very social thing.

I was lucky that the other woman came out so I had an opportunity to take some pictures.

Would I repeat the experience? Oh yes!.... hopefully in Gorme, before we fly out to Istanbul.

May 26, 2016

Rose Oil in Egirdir, Turkey

Each country has special places where the locals take regular holidays.  One of the places in Turkey is a small lake community called Egirdir.  It is situated inland not far past the university and military city of Isparta, which is the rose capital of Turkey.  But Egirdir also has a rose industry we found out.

We planned our trip from Selcuk by bus, not knowing quite what to expect.  We were very surprised because the bus service, KamilKoc, was excellent.
Judy compared it to premium economy when flying. We had TV available (in Turkish, of course), foot rests, reclining seats, and free snack and beverage service during the trip.  We also had charging stations for computers and Internet (very slow) available.

We had to take a mini bus from Selcuk to the bus depot but the whole trip to Egirdir one way was only 55 TL, approximately $30 CDN for a 6 hour trip.

We had reservations at a small pension that Judy had stayed at over the years called Choo Choo Pension.  The original owner was pretty eccentric, or so I was told..... another story! but the family who owns it now are great!

 The little hotel is located right across the street from the lake and it has a restaurant situated on the lakeside as well as the hotel side.

The little point of land where we were staying used to be an island accessible only by boat.  Eventually a causeway was built to connect the island to the mainland.

One of the special things we did today was take a drive into the hills to see where roses are grown and harvested for rose oil.  Then we went to see where the oil was extracted.  It takes 3,000 kilos of petals to produce 1 kilo of pure rose oil.  1 gram of rose oil sells wholesale for 45 TL, so it is a very expensive product.

Then it was back to the city (only 15,000 people) to attend the local market that happens every Thursday.  Judy picked up rose products that she wanted to take home as gifts.

I finished my time in town having a humam .... a Turkish Bath.  I'll explain the process in my next blog post!

We finished off the day with yet another fabulous Turkish dinner followed by the traditional drink "Raki" which is similar in taste to the Greek "Ouzo."