Three Great Weeks in Turkey June 2016!

Turkey is very much a mix of modern and ancient.  I decided to write about some of the highlights of my trip in May and June, 2016 now that I'm back in Canada.  I stayed in 3 cities while I was in Turkey; Selcuk, Egirdir, and Goreme.  I also did a number of day trips to other areas.

Like many travelers, there were things I was interested in seeing and things that weren't on my list. Some of the "don't miss" highlights I took in were as follows.

Ephesus

Ephesus (Selcuk)
Ephesus is the most complete Greco-Roman classical city on earth and is also a UNESCO Heritage Site.  The Temple of Artemis, located on the site, was one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world.  The closest city, Selcuk, is also home to Isa Bey Mosque and the Basilica of St. John.

I'm not big on museums and ruins but I must say I am glad I went to see Ephesus, although I had to run to stay ahead of the crowds to take pictures!  If you can arrange to see the ruins before or after the cruise ship tours or any other day than on the weekend, it will be worth your while.

It's also a good idea either to take in the museum and video about Ephesus (located in Selcuk) before you go or hire a guide on-site.

There is an amazing amount of history included with the site.

Hamam (Egirdir)

Hamam

The next trip to Turkey will include 2 Hamams, one at the beginning and one at the end!  The Turkish bath is located in many cities but the one I was introduced to was in the town of Egirdir.  It has just been renovated and offers separate days for men and women.  The woman who runs it and does the massage is amazing!

It was probably the best one I could experience in Turkey on my first trip.  Now I have something to compare the others with.

The Hamam is open for women on Thursdays and Fridays.  The local market is on Thursdays, so it is a good day to plan to be there.

The market is also a good place to purchase rose oil products, something the area is known for. Tours can be arranged to go up into the hills and actually see a production sight and purchase real rose oil, which I did.

Cave Church Frescoes

Goreme Open Air Museum (Goreme, Cappadocia)
Cappadocia's Goreme Open Air Museum was created by nature first and then embellished by man through painting wonderful religious frescoes in the natural churches on site. The most untouched artwork is located in the Dark Church. The closest city, Goreme, has many natural sites of it's own, including actual caves and fairy chimneys that a person can stay in while exploring the rest of the area.

The Open Air Museum is definitely a good place to begin your site-seeing in this wonderful fairyland.

Caravanserai

Whirling Dervishes at Caravanserai (Cappadocia)
I wasn't too sure what to expect at the Whirling Dervishes but I was handed a pamphlet as I went in explaining what I would see.  It's a traditional religious ceremony following the teaching of Qua ran in the Muslim culture and it is centuries old.

The setting I saw it in was amazing.  The Caravanserai was a stop on the Silk Road for travelers centuries ago.  Both the travelers and their animals (camels or horses) stayed in the building overnight and had a meal there.

I was allowed to take pictures/ videos toward the end of the ceremony.  The best place to sit is 2 or 3 levels up in the seating area situated behind the alter with red lighting.

I haven't included a video because I think it is something a person has to experience them self.

Turkey Bloomers

Traditional Farm Clothing (Throughout Turkey)
Long full bloomers were the traditional nomadic dress of both men and women before 1900.  It eventually became popular more with the women and are still worn.  The "bloomers" are long garb, fitted at the ankles and with a crotch that is just about as long.

Because they are a very baggy garment they are considered appropriate for an older Muslim woman to look well covered when out in public.  They show absolutely no figure!  They are also great for farming or gardening. Personally I think they are extremely comfortable, like jogging pants, but just to be worn around the house in the north American culture!

The clothing throughout most parts of Turkey is very western although many women wear a scarf when they are out in public, which designates they are Muslim.  The scarves are usually very colourful on the younger women.  And a note.... I saw fewer women wearing burkas in Turkey than I've seen in Canada!

The only time I was expected to wear a scarf was entering a mosque but there was usually a selection available at the door.  I also respected the culture by wearing a top with short sleeves and either capris or a skirt to my knees in the parts of Turkey I visited.  Because it was warm, my flip flops came out,of course!

Underground Rooms

Underground Cities (Cappadocia Area)
A couple of the tours that many people experience while in Cappadocia is a visit to one of the underground cities.  A new one has recently been discovered and may have housed up to 30,000 people at one time.  They hope to have it open for tours in a couple of years.

The one I visited with Turtle Tours was the widest underground city found so far in the region, Kaymakli Underground City.  It goes down 8 levels but currently only 5 levels are open to the public for safety reasons.  You must hire a guide to tour the city and if you tend to be claustrophobic it may not be a good choice.

Archaeologists figured up to 3,500 people lived in the city centuries ago.

The Cat and I Checking Carpets

Turkish Carpets (Throughout Turkey)
No trip to Turkey is complete without taking the time to find out about Turkish carpets.  I still know very little!

Carpets were woven for hundreds of years for practical reasons.  The nomadic travelers used them for sleeping in their tents and also as a ground cover for serving food.  The way they were constructed, the carpets lasted many years.  Each region developed their own patterns and even now a carpet can be identified by its pattern.  A woman would learn to weave carpets to put in her dowry.  She might create her own patterns too so the carpets at times were very artistic. The women would also create their own colours and dye lots from the plants growing in their region.

I spent some time with Ruth at Tribal Carpet Collections finding out a bit more about the various carpets available. There are a number of carpet materials used for weaving with the finest carpets being made out of silk or a combination of fine wool and silk. Many of the later carpets were woven out of a rougher wool.

Carpet prices vary greatly, and sometimes depends on how good a person is at bartering!  It's also necessary to deal with a reputable carpet dealer since there are lots of "fake" Turkish carpets out there. One of the interesting things that is happening now is the used Turkish carpets are often cheaper than the new ones because the people weaving them are finally getting a decent wage (for Turkey, that is!)

If you plan to buy a carpet when in Turkey, try and find someone knowledgeable that can take you to a few carpet stores and can show you what to watch for.  It might cost you a few dollars for the tour but will save you money in the end.

Sackava

Ethnic Food
Isn't it interesting that my blogging keeps bringing me back to food.  It's because the food is sooooo good in Turkey!  I think that's why I felt so healthy while I was there.  Much of the food is grown organically and sold fresh and ripe at the local markets.

When I was in Selcuk I went to the Tire market on Tuesday and the Saturday Selcuk market.  In Egirdir, the market is on Thursday.  The Goreme market is Wednesday and the Avanos market (near Goreme) is Friday. We also went to an indoor one in Nevsehir, which is the site of the new underground city.  The market is open on Saturday and Monday.

There are many dishes I still have to try (watch for my blog on main dishes in Turkey) but I have had the opportunity to sample quite a few while I've been here. Probably the ones I have enjoyed the most are the mezes but I also enjoyed gozleme, manti, borek, every type of sis kebap, sackava, guvec, and of course baklava with chai or ayran or Turkish coffee as a beverage, or the occasional Efes bira.

Now that I've returned home I've decided to continue eating healthy.  I've already changed my diet to a traditional Turkish breakfast!

Kamilkoc Buslines

Getting Around Turkey
It was very easy to get around Turkey.  I flew from Vancouver to Munich on Lufthansa and then into Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  From there I caught a flight to Izmir.  I found out after I could have flown direct to Izmir.

From Izmir airport to Selcuk there are 2 options.  Take the train from the Izmir airport (very cheap especially if you are a senior) or get a local transfer (also very cheap)! From Selcuk to Egidir I took a Kamilkoc Bus, which is very reasonable and comfortable.  They serve drinks and snacks during the trip.  It is about a 6 hour journey to Egidir from Selcuk.

Flying from Izmir to Cappadocia is about an hour and half. There is a great Airport Transfer (Helios Transfer) to Goreme or other locations. They are also available for inbound tours.

For local tours I made my arrangements through the Nazar Hotel in Selcuk, the Choo Choo Pension in Egidir, and the Cave Hotel Saksagan in Cappadocia.

The last way to enjoy Turkey, specifically Cappadocia, is by balloon.  Plan to be in Cappadocia for at least 3 to 4 days because the balloon companies will only fly if the winds are okay.

Make your arrangements through a local reputable tour company because some of the companies don't have a good safety record and experienced pilots.

The tour company I used was Turtle Tours because I found them to be honest and reasonably priced.  Unfortunately I had 2 days of bad weather after I finally made up my mind to go up so missed doing the flight.  Next time!

Ephesus in Selcuk, Turkey

The streets of Ephesus were paved with marble, welcoming the likes of people like Cleopatra in 33 BC. While they were in Ephesus, Cleopatra ( assisted by her lover Mark Antony) spent time planning the fall of Octavian, the nephew of Julius Caesar.

Of course Octavian won the war and drove Cleopatra and Antony back to Alexandria.

I spent time at the Ephesus site, just 10 minutes outside of Secuk 2049 years later trying to take pictures while avoiding the crowds of school children learning their history lessons!  They are so lucky to have a site like Ephesus to visit, where they can get hands on experience.

In fact the site is still "touchable.". People can run their lands over blocks of marble that are centuries old. 

Ephesus is also an active archaeologist site that shouldn't be missed if you are traveling anywhere near Selcuk, Turkey.  The size alone is phenomenal and as you meander down the hills you really get a sense of what people would do to stay entertained centuries before.  There is a theatre and library, bath houses, shops, etc.

Judy, my friend I was traveling with, suggested I do a little bit of pre-reading or visit the Ephesus Museum before I went to the site, which I did.

There are audio machines to listen to (available in different languages) but better to get a guide and support the local economy.  The site is expensive to enter compared to others (40 Turkish lira - equivalent to $20 CDN) but well worth the money.

One of the things that is interesting when one travels is meeting other travelers from all parts of the world.  One of the people staying at our hotel was there for the weekend to see Ephesus.  He was considering it for his next project.

Jean-Pierre van Lin is the Managing Director of LIVE:TOUR5D, an interactive experience at historical sites.  In the middle of June, the company will be presenting the Battle of Waterloo "live" in Belgium.  The concept for visual and tactile learners, especially learning history, was amazing for me. Check out his site at www.livertour5d.com

I met many other wonderful people during my time in Selcuk too.  There was Ilker and Selma who own the Nazar Hotel, hidden away in a local neighbourhood.  Selma is one of the best historical guides from Istanbul to Pannukale.  Ilker is passionate about what is happening in his country right now and was interesting to talk with just to get a sense of life in modern Turkey.  The hotel site is www.nazarhotel.com

Just a note - the pool is only open from June 1st to November 30th.


Another place I would like to mention is Celsus Ceramic, a wonderful Turkish Ceramic and Jewelry store in the village part of Selcuk. It is run by a young couple, Gulcin and Yasin.

Gulcin is well known for her ceramic painting and Jewelry making. You will really get a real sense of the Turkish hospitality at the shop and also fair prices, especially if you are just in port for the day on a cruise ship stop.

Please give the business to the locals, not to the cruise ships who have built their own huge shops to take cruise ship passengers to.  Get into the heart of safe Selcuk and support the local economy!

If you happen to be in port on a Saturday, take in the Selcuk market to buy local cotton, one of the best and safest markets in Turkey.  It's easy to get from the Kusadasi port to Selcuk, a 15 minute ride away by taxi or dolmuses (the local mini bus).

There are also many local restaurants close by to experience the wonderful Turkish cuisine.  Thete's the TAT restaurant, also in the village or a couple of other spots just up the road that are great.  You will never starve in Turkey!

 At the end of the day, anywhere you go in Turkey, you can take in an amazing sunset. Whether it's over the ruins or over the hills or over the ocean, It's beautiful!

Great Things to See in Selcuk, Turkey

What is life like in Selcuk, Turkey? I decided to take Saturday and just do community things instead of going out to see more of the sites.

My morning began with a very traditional Turkish breakfast, fresh bread, cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, orange slices, a hard boiled egg, and coffee.

The neighbourhood here is very quiet even though it's only a block off the main road. The local bread shop/ grocery store is two doors away, run by a couple of ladies, probably mother and daughter.  Laundry is often hung out in the evening to dry during the night and is taken down in the morning.  I looked down the street and could see a man sweeping with something that looked like a large search of twigs.

The local Turkish people tend to keep to themselves, unless they are involved in tourism.  I can smile at them but they don't smile back....yet!  I've found that in many of my travels.  It takes time to build relationships.

There is no local newspaper here so a woman's voice (surprising because it's such a patriarchal society) makes announcements over a loud speaker a couple of times a day; who died, deadline for taxes, special celebrations, etc.   Five times a day there is also a call to prayer over other loudspeakers situated at the mosques throughout the city.  It may be noisy occasionally, but definitely interesting and an easy part of the culture to accept once I'd been here a couple of days.

Transportation is varied, from cars to motorcycles to mopeds to bicycles.  There is even a couple of tractors on my street.

People's dress is varied too.  Many of the older women wear traditional clothing; colourful ballooned pants, blouse and sweater, and head scarf.  Men often have a cap of some sort on, like a wolf sailer style or a knitted skull cap.

Younger people are mostly in western dress with no head covering.  I think it's a personal choice now as many younger people have moved away from the traditional Muslim culture, which makes it easier for tourists to blend in. The only time I will need a head covering is if I go into a mosque.  Otherwise, I keep my shoulders and knees covered, mainly to show respect in a conservative culture.  When in Rome!....

There are very few women wearing the black burkas so the ones that do definitely stand out.  I actually saw a couple of women making a "fashion statement" with their burkas, beautiful turquoises and bright fushia outfits in the market.  Change is coming!

I am not going to talk about politics too much other than what I have heard so far is very interesting.  I will say that some people believe that the country's current leader is not what he appeared to be when he took power a few years ago and the younger people are realizing that.

There are at least two groups of people in the traditional Turkish cultures.  The other large group are the Kurdish people.  Many of them hold sales positions because they are darned good at selling.  I think some of them are taught the fine art of sales before they can walk!  The Kurdish people are similar to many of the indigenous people in Canada and have dealt with many struggles over the centuries from what I understand.

Drinking coffee and tea and sharing food with others is a big part of the culture.  Each neighbourhood has their favourite tea man, who delivers on demand. More men than women it seems participate in this ongoing ritual that can happen many times a day.  I very seldom see women sitting in the sidewalk cafes and if they are they are well removed from the men. The men will be together for noon meals but there are no women in site. Before or after a meal older men tend to spend time playing tiles, which similar to dominoes.

As I mentioned, call to prayer is 5 times a day.  At that time many of the men (a few women) attend the mosque.  Friday around 1:30 is the big weekly prayer, so people who have been too busy the rest of the week try to attend then.  Often they have to bring in extra carpets because the mosque is full and they have to set up prayer stations outside.

I went out to the local market today, held every Saturday.  Everything you can imagine is available here.  In this part of Turkey they are well known for cotton.  The main employers are garment factories supplying much of the world with good cotton clothing and jeans. They also do the high end labels.  The one thing I don't notice here is the real poverty.  On the most part people appear well and not needing to beg for money and food.

One of the things that wasn't present at the market, especially around the food area was flies.  It is such a clean area that I don't think flies stand a chance!

A few other things I've discovered here?  It's a good idea in the older buildings to drink bottled water as the pipes are very old.  Also, the old sewer pipes can get plugged up easily so they ask that people dispose of paper products in the waste basket.  Also electricity is getting more expensive so our hotel has an automatic shut off when the electronic key is pulled out.

Crossing a road is a challenge!  Even though Selcuk has marked crosswalks, that doesn't mean cars stop. I DO NOT cross when there is any sign of traffic.... because if there is you can be assured the car will speed up.  They aren't trying to run the tourists over, this happens with everyone!

But standing on the corner allows me the opportunity to watch the storks feeding their babies.  There seems to be at least one nest on every corner to keep people entertained!

The evening meal came straight from the market.  It was almost the end of the season for artichokes but we were lucky enough to order a feast of them.  They were prepared in a way I've never experienced them and were exceptionally good!

After a full day it's back to the hotel to finish off the evening with a glass of wine and yogurt, strawberries and pine honey!