Jun 14, 2016

Three Great Weeks in Turkey June 2016!

Turkey is very much a mix of modern and ancient.  I decided to write about some of the highlights of my trip in May and June, 2016 now that I'm back in Canada.  I stayed in 3 cities while I was in Turkey; Selcuk, Egirdir, and Goreme.  I also did a number of day trips to other areas.

Like many travelers, there were things I was interested in seeing and things that weren't on my list. Some of the "don't miss" highlights I took in were as follows.

Ephesus
Ephesus (Selcuk)
Ephesus is the most complete Greco-Roman classical city on earth and is also a UNESCO Heritage Site.  The Temple of Artemis, located on the site, was one of the 7 wonders of the ancient world.  The closest city, Selcuk, is also home to Isa Bey Mosque and the Basilica of St. John.

I'm not big on museums and ruins but I must say I am glad I went to see Ephesus, although I had to run to stay ahead of the crowds to take pictures!  If you can arrange to see the ruins before or after the cruise ship tours or any other day than on the weekend, it will be worth your while.

It's also a good idea either to take in the museum and video about Ephesus (located in Selcuk) before you go or hire a guide on-site.

There is an amazing amount of history included with the site.

Hamam (Egirdir)
Hamam
The next trip to Turkey will include 2 Hamams, one at the beginning and one at the end!  The Turkish bath is located in many cities but the one I was introduced to was in the town of Egirdir.  It has just been renovated and offers separate days for men and women.  The woman who runs it and does the massage is amazing!

It was probably the best one I could experience in Turkey on my first trip.  Now I have something to compare the others with.

The Hamam is open for women on Thursdays and Fridays.  The local market is on Thursdays, so it is a good day to plan to be there.

The market is also a good place to purchase rose oil products, something the area is known for. Tours can be arranged to go up into the hills and actually see a production sight and purchase real rose oil, which I did.

Cave Church Frescoes
Goreme Open Air Museum (Goreme, Cappadocia)
Cappadocia's Goreme Open Air Museum was created by nature first and then embellished by man through painting wonderful religious frescoes in the natural churches on site. The most untouched artwork is located in the Dark Church. The closest city, Goreme, has many natural sites of it's own, including actual caves and fairy chimneys that a person can stay in while exploring the rest of the area.

The Open Air Museum is definitely a good place to begin your site-seeing in this wonderful fairyland.


Caravanserai
Whirling Dervishes at Caravanserai (Cappadocia)
I wasn't too sure what to expect at the Whirling Dervishes but I was handed a pamphlet as I went in explaining what I would see.  It's a traditional religious ceremony following the teaching of Qua ran in the Muslim culture and it is centuries old.

The setting I saw it in was amazing.  The Caravanserai was a stop on the Silk Road for travelers centuries ago.  Both the travelers and their animals (camels or horses) stayed in the building overnight and had a meal there.

I was allowed to take pictures/ videos toward the end of the ceremony.  The best place to sit is 2 or 3 levels up in the seating area situated behind the alter with red lighting.

I haven't included a video because I think it is something a person has to experience them self.

Turkey Bloomers
Traditional Farm Clothing (Throughout Turkey)
Long full bloomers were the traditional nomadic dress of both men and women before 1900.  It eventually became popular more with the women and are still worn.  The "bloomers" are long garb, fitted at the ankles and with a crotch that is just about as long.

Because they are a very baggy garment they are considered appropriate for an older Muslim woman to look well covered when out in public.  They show absolutely no figure!  They are also great for farming or gardening. Personally I think they are extremely comfortable, like jogging pants, but just to be worn around the house in the north American culture!

The clothing throughout most parts of Turkey is very western although many women wear a scarf when they are out in public, which designates they are Muslim.  The scarves are usually very colourful on the younger women.  And a note.... I saw fewer women wearing burkas in Turkey than I've seen in Canada!

The only time I was expected to wear a scarf was entering a mosque but there was usually a selection available at the door.  I also respected the culture by wearing a top with short sleeves and either capris or a skirt to my knees in the parts of Turkey I visited.  Because it was warm, my flip flops came out,of course!

Underground Rooms
Underground Cities (Cappadocia Area)
A couple of the tours that many people experience while in Cappadocia is a visit to one of the underground cities.  A new one has recently been discovered and may have housed up to 30,000 people at one time.  They hope to have it open for tours in a couple of years.

The one I visited with Turtle Tours was the widest underground city found so far in the region, Kaymakli Underground City.  It goes down 8 levels but currently only 5 levels are open to the public for safety reasons.  You must hire a guide to tour the city and if you tend to be claustrophobic it may not be a good choice.

Archaeologists figured up to 3,500 people lived in the city centuries ago.


The Cat and I Checking Carpets



Turkish Carpets (Throughout Turkey)
No trip to Turkey is complete without taking the time to find out about Turkish carpets.  I still know very little!

Carpets were woven for hundreds of years for practical reasons.  The nomadic travelers used them for sleeping in their tents and also as a ground cover for serving food.  The way they were constructed, the carpets lasted many years.  Each region developed their own patterns and even now a carpet can be identified by its pattern.  A woman would learn to weave carpets to put in her dowry.  She might create her own patterns too so the carpets at times were very artistic. The women would also create their own colours and dye lots from the plants growing in their region.

I spent some time with Ruth at Tribal Carpet Collections finding out a bit more about the various carpets available. There are a number of carpet materials used for weaving with the finest carpets being made out of silk or a combination of fine wool and silk. Many of the later carpets were woven out of a rougher wool.

Carpet prices vary greatly, and sometimes depends on how good a person is at bartering!  It's also necessary to deal with a reputable carpet dealer since there are lots of "fake" Turkish carpets out there. One of the interesting things that is happening now is the used Turkish carpets are often cheaper than the new ones because the people weaving them are finally getting a decent wage (for Turkey, that is!)

If you plan to buy a carpet when in Turkey, try and find someone knowledgeable that can take you to a few carpet stores and can show you what to watch for.  It might cost you a few dollars for the tour but will save you money in the end.

Sackava
Ethnic Food
Isn't it interesting that my blogging keeps bringing me back to food.  It's because the food is sooooo good in Turkey!  I think that's why I felt so healthy while I was there.  Much of the food is grown organically and sold fresh and ripe at the local markets.

When I was in Selcuk I went to the Tire market on Tuesday and the Saturday Selcuk market.  In Egirdir, the market is on Thursday.  The Goreme market is Wednesday and the Avanos market (near Goreme) is Friday. We also went to an indoor one in Nevsehir, which is the site of the new underground city.  The market is open on Saturday and Monday.

There are many dishes I still have to try (watch for my blog on main dishes in Turkey) but I have had the opportunity to sample quite a few while I've been here. Probably the ones I have enjoyed the most are the mezes but I also enjoyed gozleme, manti, borek, every type of sis kebap, sackava, guvec, and of course baklava with chai or ayran or Turkish coffee as a beverage, or the occasional Efes bira.

Now that I've returned home I've decided to continue eating healthy.  I've already changed my diet to a traditional Turkish breakfast!

Kamilkoc Buslines
Getting Around Turkey
It was very easy to get around Turkey.  I flew from Vancouver to Munich on Lufthansa and then into Istanbul on Turkish Airlines.  From there I caught a flight to Izmir.  I found out after I could have flown direct to Izmir.

From Izmir airport to Selcuk there are 2 options.  Take the train from the Izmir airport (very cheap especially if you are a senior) or get a local transfer (also very cheap)! From Selcuk to Egidir I took a Kamilkoc Bus, which is very reasonable and comfortable.  They serve drinks and snacks during the trip.  It is about a 6 hour journey to Egidir from Selcuk.

Flying from Izmir to Cappadocia is about an hour and half. There is a great Airport Transfer (Helios Transfer) to Goreme or other locations. They are also available for inbound tours.

For local tours I made my arrangements through the Nazar Hotel in Selcuk, the Choo Choo Pension in Egidir, and the Cave Hotel Saksagan in Cappadocia.

The last way to enjoy Turkey, specifically Cappadocia, is by balloon.  Plan to be in Cappadocia for at least 3 to 4 days because the balloon companies will only fly if the winds are okay.

Make your arrangements through a local reputable tour company because some of the companies don't have a good safety record and experienced pilots.

The tour company I used was Turtle Tours because I found them to be honest and reasonably priced.  Unfortunately I had 2 days of bad weather after I finally made up my mind to go up so missed doing the flight.  Next time!

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